Wilderness Canoeing in Canada

Tyrrell's Cairn - Dubawnt River at Carey Lake Exit

Distance 17km [495km]
Portage 0 [12]
Very Fast Water 0 [26]
Rapids 0 [13]

A frustrating day.

We woke to a strong headwind so went back to sleep hoping the wind would moderate. On reviewing the situation we figured we could cross a large section of open water with the wind from the side. We packed up and were on the water by late morning starting out with a moderate cross wind but once we reached the biggest open stretch, approximately eight kilometres along, the wind increased until we were on “the high seas” with white caps and huge waves, some at least a metre high, crashing over the side of the canoe. It really was scary. John had a devil of a job trying to hold the canoe and steer and I was struggling to paddle deeply enough. Once we finally got within about one hundred metres of shore we turned and ran before the wind, this was also scary and dangerous as the canoe crashed up and down over the high waves. The spray cover proved its worth yet again. About 1.30 pm we pulled into a rocky bay and waited there until 6pm however the wind showed no signs of dropping.

We could not camp where we were so eventually we set off again thinking the wind would surely moderate however this was not to be and again we were in the dangerous situation of extremely high waves both from the side and behind whilst our visibility was severely compromised by paddling directly into the bright sun. To add to our woes, before reaching the end of the lake and re-joining the Dubawnt River we had to detour around a long rocky reef not marked on the map. The final two kilometres we were fighting a freezing wind and despairing of ever finding a camp site when John spotted a tiny beach. We landed after 8pm. This site would not win any prizes but it is so good to be off the water and safely in our tent. We are camped close by a forest of black spruce that have been ‘bonsaied’ by the wind.